Once upon a time, a California seaside city oozing with storybook charm was slapped with the most bah-humbug of laws: No more ice cream cones—or so it seemed. Despite the layers behind the legislation, its idyllic reputation was tarnished with the new moniker “Scrooge City.” That is, until a Hollywood movie star swooped in to bring the sweet treats back to its charming streets.
In a nutshell, that is what appeared to have happened in Carmel-by-the-Sea in the 1980s, when none other than Clint Eastwood became the city’s real-life ice cream action hero. But that story’s not exactly the full scoop.
“It wasn't an actual ban on ice cream cones,” Katie O’Connell, Carmel Public Library’s local history librarian says. The story is more complex.
A Travelers’ Haven
Carmel-by-the-Sea—known colloquially as Carmel—sits on one of central California’s most dramatic sections, where serene white sand beaches contrast with craggy cliffs. Long before its official incorporation in 1916, the land was home to the Indigenous Esselen and Ohlone tribes. Spanish explorers first arrived in the 1600s and Father Junipero Serra founded a California mission there in 1771.
Though just a cozy 1.1 square miles, Carmel’s natural beauty drew a population of writers and artists seeking inspiration and relaxation. Authors Jack London and George Sterling were among its early residents, while Robert Louis Stevenson was believed to have walked near Point Lobos when the idea for Treasure Island took shape. In the 1920s, English country-style cottages designed by architect Hugh Comstock were added to its streets, cinching in its whimsical reputation.
Along with its paradisal lifestyle arose a natural conundrum. As more people yearned for a piece of its magic, development skyrocketed, threatening the small-town charm that made Carmel so alluring. To preserve its lifestyle, the city started developing a “reputation for unusual restrictions, some of which have been considered excessive or frivolous,” O’Connell says.
Among them: no street addresses, chain restaurants, parking meters or street lights—all of which are still enforced today.