President Carter visited within days to observe the devastation from above. “Somebody said it looks like a moonscape, but the moon looks like a golf course compared to what’s up there,” Carter told the press.
Carter would have seen some of the damage, which included the North Fork Toutle River buried more than a dozen miles, lakebeds raised by almost 200 feet, nearly 5 billion board feet of timber downed, more than 20 bridges washed away and property damage of more than $1 billion. Almost 60 people died.
Although Carter emphasized devastation, the power of nature and what might come next also captured his attention. He told reporters that scientists and tourists would visit the landscape once it was made safe.
Carter was right. What he didn’t yet know is how much they would be surprised.
Life Returns at Nature’s Pace
In June, three federal scientists helicoptered into the blast zone, steam still rising from the crater. After landing, Jerry Franklin, an ecologist with the United States Forest Service, climbed out. As writer Eric Wagner later described it, a flash of green caught Franklin’s eye. Already, fireweed was reclaiming its spot in the ecosystem. Franklin and his colleagues had expected life to take much longer to return. Mount St. Helens repeatedly humbled scientists whose predictions regularly underestimated what nature would do.
Three decades later the once-gray landscape had greened up.
Timber Production Whirs Into Gear
While the Forest Service stepped back, private timber interests stepped up.
The Weyerhaeuser Company owned 68,000 acres affected by the eruption. It responded with economic interests, salvaging as much downed timber as possible. According to the company, it employed more than 1,000 people, removed up to 600 truckloads of logs daily, worked for almost two years and rescued enough timber for 85,000 homes.
Next, the company planted seedlings, 18 million of them across some 45,000 acres, to start its next commercial forest. The company’s chief forester at its St. Helens tree farm, Dick Ford, told the The New York Times, “We had no idea if anything would even grow there because there was simply no precedent for something like this.” But it worked. Another Weyerhaeuser forester boasted, “We have done a much better job than nature.” By 2009, trees had reportedly reached 70 feet.
In Untouched Areas, Higher Diversity
Having two types of forest in close proximity invited comparison.
For some of the local population, the recovering Weyerhaeuser Forest seemed promising and more important than studying ecological succession. During a debate about managing the national monument, one local resident voiced her frustration: “You don’t need 20,000 acres to see how vegetation comes back.” To her and others, scientific research and monitoring did not count as the highest use of the land and did not justify such restrictive classification.
Environmental scientists, however, learned much from studying how biological life returned. They found greater biodiversity where nature was left to grow at its own pace. What ecologists saw in the eruption’s aftermath helped them rethink logging practices, too. Clearcutting sweeps the land clean, but Franklin noted in a 2010 feature in BioScience that “if we’re interested in things like biological diversity and other kinds of ecosystem processes besides timber production, maybe we’d better rethink our concepts.”
President Carter had grasped this early on, noting in May 1980, “My guess is that over a period of time the Mount St. Helens explosion will be one of intense interest to geologists and volcanologists and others from all over the world, and it'll be a scientific curiosity in the finest sense of that word.”
Beyond geology, the mountain would reveal lessons about nature's resilience for decades to come.