A pair of baggy, knee-length pants might not seem like the stuff of New York legend. But the term “knickerbockers” has been part of the city’s identity for more than two centuries, from Dutch settlers in old New Amsterdam to championship basketball courts.
But from Dutch settlers in old New Amsterdam to championship basketball courts, the term “knickerbockers” has been part of the city’s identity for more than two centuries.
What exactly are knickerbockers?
Knickerbockers are loose trousers, rolled or gathered just below the knee, worn by Dutch settlers in 18th- and early 19th-century New York.
Washington Irving helped popularize the word in 1809 with the publication of his satire, A History of New York from the Beginning of the World to the End of the Dutch Dynasty, under the pen name Diedrich Knickerbocker.
“Knickerbocker is one of the most familiar names in America,” The Wall Street Journal reported in 2000. “For nearly 200 years, the name has been appropriated… for its charm and distinctly New York connotations.”
The newspaper adds that the first “Knickerbocker” was an alias invented by 17th-century New Amsterdam settler Harmen Jansen Van Whye. His signature morphed to “Knickerbacker,” which Irving later tweaked to “Knickerbocker.”
“The baggy New Amsterdam knee pants depicted in the book's illustrations became known as ‘knickerbockers,’ a term eventually applied to women's underdrawers,” the Wall Street Journal reports.
How did the style evolve?
By the late 19th century, knickerbockers shifted from colonial practicality to everyday menswear, especially for sports. Their roomy cut made them ideal for cycling, golf and hiking. Emily Angus, in The Fashion Encyclopedia, notes that the style “allowed plenty of freedom of movement.”
Women tried them, too. A 1921 Women’s Wear Daily article reported the growing trend of knickerbocker suits, although women’s apparel retailers called the idea “an absurdity.” By the 1930s, long trousers came into vogue, pushing the knickerbocker trend aside.