From shakes and bars to everyday foods and drinks, protein products are everywhere—but enthusiasm for the macronutrient was decades in the making.
In the mid-1800s, German chemist Justus von Liebig regarded protein as “the only true nutrient” due to its vital role in tissue building and muscle growth. The focus on protein took off as nutritional research expanded during World War II, and its popularity skyrocketed in the 1990s and early 2000s, fueled by fitness culture and high-protein, low-carb diet fads.
“One of the reasons that we’ve been so obsessed with protein is that it has never been vilified in the same way that carbs and fats have been,” says Hannah Cutting-Jones, a food historian and assistant professor of global studies at the University of Oregon. “It has always been on this pedestal.”
Here’s how protein became a multibillion-dollar industry in the United States.
Mid-1800s: Early Scientific Studies on Protein
Enthusiasm for protein dates back to the mid-1800s, when scientists first determined its chemical properties and identified carbohydrates, fats and proteins as the main macronutrients that provide the body with energy. Protein was lauded for its nitrogen-rich composition—an essential building block for human development.
In the 1860s, Liebig mass-produced one of the first protein-enriched products. His meat extract was sold worldwide, primarily in Europe, as an inexpensive alternative to animal meat. By the century’s end, the U.S. Department of Agriculture, founded in 1862, recommended more than 110 grams of protein a day for working men—a figure that was later substantially reduced.